From: owner-scribes@castle.org (scribes digest) To: scribes-digest@castle.org Subject: scribes digest V8 #24 Reply-To: Sender: owner-scribes@castle.org Errors-To: owner-scribes@castle.org Precedence: bulk scribes digest Wednesday, July 10 2002 Volume 08 : Number 024 ======================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with unsubscribe scribes-digets in the body of the message. Leave the subject line blank. Do not include any additional text. Re: [scribes]: gems Re: Re: [scribes]: gems Re: [scribes]: gems Re: [scribes]: gems [scribes]: Paper Question RE: [scribes]: Paper Question Re: [scribes]: Paper Question Re: [scribes]: Paper Question Re: [scribes]: gems (long) Re: [scribes]: re: cooling your house [scribes]: Gems handouts [scribes]: Lochac Coronation Re: [scribes]: gems (pearl) [Fwd: Re: [scribes]: Rant and gems] [scribes]: painting gems ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 13:16:42 EDT From: PDRUSS@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: gems - --part1_19c.4ec17e7.2a5c747a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If anyone posted the info about painting gems and pearls, I missed it. Could you send it to me by private email? Thanks, Tamara pdruss@aol.com - --part1_19c.4ec17e7.2a5c747a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If anyone posted the info about painting gems and pearls, I missed it.

Could you send it to me by private email?

Thanks, Tamara
pdruss@aol.com - --part1_19c.4ec17e7.2a5c747a_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 13:36:47 -0400 From: Subject: Re: Re: [scribes]: gems This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=____1026236207880_c'UNb=AF8H Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > If anyone posted the info about painting gems and pearls, I missed it. > > Could you send it to me by private email? Heck, no! Post it out here for all of us to see! I know how I paint gems but am not completely satisfied with the result. Mine look too solid, not transparent. I can do pearls fine, but not the clear ones. Pearls-- I paint the whole thing white. I decide where the light is coming from. On the opposite side from the light source I add shadows-- depending on the size of the pearl, one to three different shades of darkness, with the darkest being at the far edge, shading to the lightest shadow near the highlight. Lucia - ------=____1026236207880_c'UNb=AF8H Content-Type: text/html; name="replyAll" Content-Disposition: inline; filename="replyAll" If anyone posted the info about painting gems and pearls, I missed it.

Could you send it to me by private email?

Thanks, Tamara
pdruss@aol.com - ------=____1026236207880_c'UNb=AF8H-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:21:37 EDT From: Floriligeum@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: gems - --part1_40.205eb1a7.2a5c83b1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have handouts from a class I taught on painting gems, beads & pearls. I can't (I don't think) send them to the list as they are attachments. But if anyone would like me to email them directly I am happy to do it. Just let me know what email addy to send them to. If you would rather get them as hard copies let me know & I will print them & send them snail mail. Yours in service, Sarra the Lymner Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom MKA Sarah Dressler Sarra's Florilegium www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com - --part1_40.205eb1a7.2a5c83b1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have handouts from a class I taught on painting gems, beads & pearls.  I can't (I don't think) send them to the list as they are attachments.  But if anyone would like me to email them directly I am happy to do it.  Just let me know what email addy to send them to.  If you would rather get them as hard copies let me know & I will print them & send them snail mail.

Yours in service,

Sarra the Lymner

Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom
MKA Sarah Dressler
Sarra's Florilegium
www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com
- --part1_40.205eb1a7.2a5c83b1_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 11:49:46 -0700 (PDT) From: jeff Crow Subject: Re: [scribes]: gems I find that if I use a combination of blue and white with varying degrees of density I am able to produce a good crystal color this coupled with the lighting and shading the was described earlier can produce a very nice effect. Raven - --- Floriligeum@aol.com wrote: > I have handouts from a class I taught on painting > gems, beads & pearls. I > can't (I don't think) send them to the list as they > are attachments. But if > anyone would like me to email them directly I am > happy to do it. Just let me > know what email addy to send them to. If you would > rather get them as hard > copies let me know & I will print them & send them > snail mail. > > Yours in service, > > Sarra the Lymner > > Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom > MKA Sarah Dressler > HREF="http://sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com/">Sarra's > Florilegium > www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 16:54:07 -0400 From: "Dianne and Greg Stucki" Subject: [scribes]: Paper Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_01EF_01C22769.3D47CC00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is Strathmore a frequently used brand of paper? Michael's has all their = Strathmore papers on sale this week for 50% off. I bought a pad of 12x18 = 140 lb cold press for $7.50. Had to do some digging to find watercolor = paper, though, as almost all I could find was sketch or tracing paper. = (I was also in a hurry, as I was on my fifteen-minute work break.) Laurensa Take hold of your inner dragon and horde not. - ------=_NextPart_000_01EF_01C22769.3D47CC00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is Strathmore a frequently used brand = of paper?=20 Michael's has all their Strathmore papers on sale this week for 50% off. = I=20 bought a pad of 12x18 140 lb cold press for $7.50. Had to do some = digging to=20 find watercolor paper, though, as almost all I could find was sketch or = tracing=20 paper. (I was also in a hurry, as I was on my fifteen-minute work=20 break.)
 
Laurensa
Take hold of your inner dragon and = horde=20 not.
- ------=_NextPart_000_01EF_01C22769.3D47CC00-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:19:16 -0700 From: "Ken Stoner" Subject: RE: [scribes]: Paper Question This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------InterScan_NT_MIME_Boundary Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C2278E.482236D4" - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2278E.482236D4 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Strathmore, in my opinion, is a b-grade brand. What I mean by this is that it is fine for most SCA Scroll-work, but I wouldn't use it for more serious pieces. The water-color paper's tend to absorb more water without buckling, however, and this can be a boon to the beginning illuminator. My first couple of scrolls were done on Strathmore and they seem to be doing OK over time. =20 - Cystennin =20 - -----Original Message----- From: Dianne and Greg Stucki [mailto:goofy1@suscom.net]=20 Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 1:54 PM To: scribes@castle.org Subject: [scribes]: Paper Question =20 Is Strathmore a frequently used brand of paper? Michael's has all their Strathmore papers on sale this week for 50% off. I bought a pad of 12x18 140 lb cold press for $7.50. Had to do some digging to find watercolor paper, though, as almost all I could find was sketch or tracing paper. (I was also in a hurry, as I was on my fifteen-minute work break.) =20 Laurensa Take hold of your inner dragon and horde not. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2278E.482236D4 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Strathmore, in my opinion, is a = b-grade brand. What I mean by this is that it is fine for most SCA Scroll-work, = but I wouldn’t use it for more serious pieces. The water-color = paper’s tend to absorb more water without buckling, however, and this can be a = boon to the beginning illuminator. My first couple of scrolls were done on = Strathmore and they seem to be doing OK over time.

 

      =       - Cystennin

 

-----Original = Message-----
From: Dianne and Greg = Stucki [mailto:goofy1@suscom.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, = 2002 1:54 PM
To: = scribes@castle.org
Subject: [scribes]: Paper = Question

 

Is Strathmore a frequently = used brand of paper? Michael's has all their Strathmore papers on sale this = week for 50% off. I bought a pad of 12x18 140 lb cold press for $7.50. Had to do = some digging to find watercolor paper, though, as almost all I could find was = sketch or tracing paper. (I was also in a hurry, as I was on my fifteen-minute = work break.)

 

Laurensa

Take hold of your inner = dragon and horde not.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C2278E.482236D4-- - --------------InterScan_NT_MIME_Boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 17:39:58 -0400 From: KMcWhyte@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: Paper Question In a message dated Tue, 9 Jul 2002 3:54:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, goofy1@suscom.net writes: > Is Strathmore a frequently used brand of paper? Michael's has all their Strathmore papers on sale this week for 50% off. I bought a pad of 12x18 140 lb cold press for $7.50. Had to do some digging to find watercolor paper, though, as almost all I could find was sketch or tracing paper. (I was also in a > hurry, as I was on my fifteen-minute work break.) > > Laurensa > Take hold of your inner dragon and horde not. OK, I know where I'm going after work... I am SO there. Thanks!! - --Kayleigh (who has a sheet of Arches already cut, but needs more for oversize...) =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 17:54:23 -0400 From: "Peter B. Steiner" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Paper Question Strathmore makes several different grades of watercolour paper. Their "500 Series" papers are excellent! (I think Michaels' sells a sample pack of that grade. If you can find -that- for 50% off, you'll have a bargain!) :-) Peter > Dianne and Greg Stucki wrote: > > Is Strathmore a frequently used brand of paper? Michael's has all their Strathmore > papers on sale this week for 50% off. I bought a pad of 12x18 140 lb cold press for > $7.50. Had to do some digging to find watercolor paper, though, as almost all I could > find was sketch or tracing paper. (I was also in a hurry, as I was on my fifteen-minute > work break.) > > Laurensa > Take hold of your inner dragon and horde not. =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 18:48:55 EDT From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: gems (long) - --part1_8c.1ac7fc32.2a5cc257_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/9/2002 2:50:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcrow_84302@yahoo.com writes: > I find that if I use a combination of blue and white > with varying degrees of density I am able to produce a > good crystal color this coupled with the lighting and > shading the was described earlier can produce a very > nice effect. > > Personally, I think the shading and highlighting are the key to making gems look transparent. I have not practiced them much, but I got pretty good drawing clear glass and I bet the same principles apply. First paint the gem in a mid-range tone of the color you want it (say red). Next take a slightly darker red and make some shadows on the "inside" of the gem to make it so you can "see" the back side of the gem (talking about cut gems here, not uncut ones). This would be a geometric shape to get it to look like it has facets. These shadows are only going to be seen in some places. In other words, don't outline the entire facet face in the back, just paint enough to "hint" that the line is there. Then take a slightly lighter tone of the same color and draw some lines on the light source side of the facet facing the viewer. Again, don't outline the whole face, just draw the line in a couple spots to indicate it is there. The last thing is to take white and make a reflection mark on each facet facing the light source. If you make a pile of them, have them reflecting light off eachother by painting just a hint of the color of one gem onto the gem next to it. You can also paint them "in front of" a gold chain or something. The gold will be visible through the gem, but the color will be different from either the gem, or the gold chain. The links should also be distorted in shape a little bit - a bit larger and elongated when viewed through the gem. The best way to learn to do this is to get a pile of gems (fake or whatever) or pente stones or marbles and pile them up, shine a bright light on them, and study them very carefully. See how the light reflects off them, how colors are reflected on the ones next to it, and how other things in the room are reflected or visible through the gems. Anyway, that is how I did glass for my last art class, and it turned out pretty good. Glass might be easier, though, since it is clear and reflects any color around it, and doesn't have its own color to contend with. Hope this helps a little bit. Brandy (Lady Brandwyn Alston of the Rift, Scrivener Royal, Deputy Clerk Signet, Atlantia) - --part1_8c.1ac7fc32.2a5cc257_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/9/2002 2:50:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcrow_84302@yahoo.com writes:


I find that if I use a combination of blue and white
with varying degrees of density I am able to produce a
good crystal color this coupled with the lighting and
shading the was described earlier can produce a very
nice effect.


Personally, I think the shading and highlighting are the key to making gems look transparent. I have not practiced them much, but I got pretty good drawing clear glass and I bet the same principles apply.

First paint the gem in a mid-range tone of the color you want it (say red). Next take a slightly darker red and make some shadows on the "inside" of the gem to make it so you can "see" the back side of the gem (talking about cut gems here, not uncut ones). This would be a geometric shape to get it to look like it has facets. These shadows are only going to be seen in some places. In other words, don't outline the entire facet face in the back, just paint enough to "hint" that the line is there. Then take a slightly lighter tone of the same color and draw some lines on the light source side of the facet facing the viewer. Again, don't outline the whole face, just draw the line in a couple spots to indicate it is there. The last thing is to take white and make a reflection mark on each facet facing the light source.

If you make a pile of them, have them reflecting light off eachother by painting just a hint of the color of one gem onto the gem next to it. You can also paint them "in front of" a gold chain or something. The gold will be visible through the gem, but the color will be different from either the gem, or the gold chain. The links should also be distorted in shape a little bit - a bit larger and elongated when viewed through the gem.

The best way to learn to do this is to get a pile of gems (fake or whatever) or pente stones or marbles and pile them up, shine a bright light on them, and study them very carefully. See how the light reflects off them, how colors are reflected on the ones next to it, and how other things in the room are reflected or visible through the gems.

Anyway, that is how I did glass for my last art class, and it turned out pretty good. Glass might be easier, though, since it is clear and reflects any color around it, and doesn't have its own color to contend with.

Hope this helps a little bit.
Brandy
(Lady Brandwyn Alston of the Rift, Scrivener Royal, Deputy Clerk Signet, Atlantia)
- --part1_8c.1ac7fc32.2a5cc257_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 20:20:39 EDT From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: re: cooling your house - --part1_12d.13da3a27.2a5cd7d7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/8/2002 10:21:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ailith@neo.rr.com writes: > Yup, Saradwen, you probably would sleep better. Lowe's has them for as > little as $30. They're not huge fans, mind you, but they would do the trick. > > The only places we don't have them are in the dining room (got an antique > chandlier for my anniversary one year) and the bathroom (ceiling's way too > low). They make *such* a difference...both in summer and winter. > > Another thing that would make a difference is a whole house fan. It's > mounted > on the window frame and it pulls air through the house--moving the hot air > out. > They run a good bit--$100+, but that fan in combination with the ceiling > fans makes my upstairs tolerable even on the hottest days. > > ailith > who lives in a 1890's house > I just bit the bullet this past Saturday and went out and got a 8000 BTU window air conditioner for $200.00 (new). I am loving it! I just couldn't take the 97 degrees with 87% humidity one day more! Boy has my attitude improved this last couple days! Brandy (Who has not had time yet to paint in her new, comfy environment, and is cringing at the thought of the next electric bill...) - --part1_12d.13da3a27.2a5cd7d7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/8/2002 10:21:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ailith@neo.rr.com writes:


Yup, Saradwen, you probably would sleep better. Lowe's has them for as
little as $30. They're not huge fans, mind you, but they would do the trick.

The only places we don't have them are in the dining room (got an antique
chandlier for my anniversary one year) and the bathroom (ceiling's way too
low). They make *such* a difference...both in summer and winter.

Another thing that would make a difference is a whole house fan. It's
mounted
on the window frame and it pulls air through the house--moving the hot air
out.
They run a good bit--$100+, but that fan in combination with the ceiling
fans makes my upstairs tolerable even on the hottest days.

ailith
who lives in a 1890's house

I just bit the bullet this past Saturday and went out and got a 8000 BTU window air conditioner for $200.00 (new). I am loving it! I just couldn't take the 97 degrees with 87% humidity one day more! Boy has my attitude improved this last couple days!

Brandy
(Who has not had time yet to paint in her new, comfy environment, and is cringing at the thought of the next electric bill...)
- --part1_12d.13da3a27.2a5cd7d7_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 21:23:51 EDT From: Floriligeum@aol.com Subject: [scribes]: Gems handouts - --part1_16d.10426bb6.2a5ce6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I believe I have sent out a copy of my handouts to everyone who asked for it. I apologize to those of you who got it twice, I had a bit of trouble with my AOL while I was sending it out the first time & I was not sure if it got sent. For those of you who asked for them snail mail I will send them out in the morning. If you still want one or I somehow missed you please email me. Yours in service, Sarra the Lymner Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom MKA Sarah Dressler Sarra's Florilegium www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com - --part1_16d.10426bb6.2a5ce6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I believe I have sent out a copy of my handouts to everyone who asked for it.  I apologize to those of you who got it twice, I had a bit of trouble with my AOL while I was sending it out the first time & I was not sure if it got sent.

For those of you who asked for them snail mail I will send them out in the morning.

If you still want one or I somehow missed you please email me.

Yours in service,

Sarra the Lymner

Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom
MKA Sarah Dressler
Sarra's Florilegium
www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com
- --part1_16d.10426bb6.2a5ce6a7_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 11:55:52 +1000 From: thorfinn Subject: [scribes]: Lochac Coronation hi Lochac is now a Kingdom and the moment of coronation can be seen at: The weather was wet and cold, but not quite snowing. as ever Thorfinn Lochac (!West) Melbourne Australia =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 22:38:38 EDT From: KMcWhyte@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: gems (pearl) - --part1_37.2a1d6f49.2a5cf82e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/9/02 2:50:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcrow_84302@yahoo.com writes: > I find that if I use a combination of blue and white > with varying degrees of density I am able to produce a > good crystal color this coupled with the lighting and > shading the was described earlier can produce a very > nice effect. > > Raven > Pearls - following the same technique as sphere in airbrush class from college, paint the undercoat in a pale grey, very close to white if it's not a pink pearl. For direct overhead lighting source, place a small dot of white for the highlight, but soften the edge of the white (blend with the undercoat). For glassy surfaces, leave a hard highlight. At about the middle of the sphere, create an upside-down crescent (not a perfect upside-down C... just soft enough to show where the shadow begins) in a darker shade of the base color. Blend with another upside-down crescent of still another shade darker at the bottom of the circle and blend with the crescent above it (dry brush or watercolor?). Last touch - pearls and glass will also reflect light, even underneath. If your pearl is pictured lying on a flat reflective surface, add a small oval at the very bottom - larger than your highlight circle, however - in a tint about 30% to 50% lighter than the "shadow" crescents. Make sure the "oval" connects to the sides of the bottom of the sphere in an "eye" shape. This extra "highlight" should add to the 3-D look. - --Kayleigh - --part1_37.2a1d6f49.2a5cf82e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/9/02 2:50:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jcrow_84302@yahoo.com writes:


I find that if I use a combination of blue and white
with varying degrees of density I am able to produce a
good crystal color this coupled with the lighting and
shading the was described earlier can produce a very
nice effect.

Raven


Pearls - following the same technique as sphere in airbrush class from college, paint the undercoat in a pale grey, very close to white if it's not a pink pearl. For direct overhead lighting source, place a small dot of white for the highlight, but soften the edge of the white (blend with the undercoat). For glassy surfaces, leave a hard highlight.

At about the middle of the sphere, create an upside-down crescent (not a perfect upside-down C... just soft enough to show where the shadow begins) in a darker shade of the base color. Blend with another upside-down crescent of still another shade darker at the bottom of the circle and blend with the crescent above it (dry brush or watercolor?).

Last touch - pearls and glass will also reflect light, even underneath. If your pearl is pictured lying on a flat reflective surface, add a small oval at the very bottom - larger than your highlight circle, however - in a tint about 30% to 50% lighter than the "shadow" crescents. Make sure the "oval" connects to the sides of the bottom of the sphere in an "eye" shape. This extra "highlight" should add to the 3-D look.

--Kayleigh - --part1_37.2a1d6f49.2a5cf82e_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 17:14:00 +1000 From: R & M Subject: [Fwd: Re: [scribes]: Rant and gems] - -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [scribes]: Rant and gems Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 17:58:07 +1000 From: R & M To: Lori Martell References: <5.1.0.14.0.20020707180610.00b39c18@pop3.norton.antivirus> <5.1.0.14.0.20020707222105.00a9c878@pop3.norton.antivirus> Pearl - Do a filled in circle in dark cream. - take a break. - do an offset circle in light cream. - take a break. - do a third offset circle in near white. - take a break. add a white highlight. done. For gems the method is the same but the colours and shapes are different. All of the above is done with gouache. The breaks allow the colours to dry between coats. Try doing some for practice and consider where the shadow should fall. Enjoy. Marit the Wanderer Lori Martell wrote: > So to the next problem... Gems.. I'm working on a Dragon's Treasure > (Middle Kingdom children's award) for this coming weekend... I need > to make a pile of treasure... gold coins are easy but would like to > include a few gems in the treasure. I can't seem to make anything > look right. > > So: hints and tips on gems and pearls?? =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:33:13 EDT From: RenScribe@aol.com Subject: [scribes]: painting gems - --part1_99.292c87f7.2a5d9199_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings all Here is the excerpt from my handout on Italian Renaissance scrolls that talks about painting pearls & gems. It may be hard to follow without the diagrams that go with it. I tried to get them up on my webpage and the server is down. If you have questions, please ask. Yvianne AEthelmearc **************************************************** Layout your design and lightly pencil in your color scheme before painting any gems. Know where you are going to place which colors. This will allow you to paint all of one colored gem at one time rather than stopping to clean your brush after every three or four stones, as well as making sure that your colors are balanced. PAINTING ... PEARLS Use a thin coat of white paint (I prefer zinc white) and completely fill in all of the circles designated as pearls. You can shade them while they are still a little wet, or wait until they are dry and rewet them as necessary. Shading on pearls can be purple, pink, gray, or blue. Paint a line with your shading color around the outer edge of the pearl and 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the darkest part of the pearl. Traditionally light comes from the upper left corner of the scroll, meaning you will want your shadows to be in the lower right portion of the pearls. Make sure you shade all of your pearls and gems with the same light source. It is all to easy to turn your paper to get a better angle to paint and have half of it shaded upside down. It may help you to draw arrows with a pencil for a visual reminder. To blend the colors, you will need plenty of clean water to keep your brush free of pigment. Start in the white portion of the pearl and pull your brush through the color towards the outer edge. Wherever you remove your brush from the paper is where you are depositing pigment, so make long strokes as opposed to short, choppy strokes. Rinse your brush often. If the pearl becomes too wet, either dry your brush on a paper towel, or blot...DO NOT WIPE.... the paper with a clean part of the paper towel. If you want, you may add a reflection from the background (same color as the background) in a curved line on the dark portion of the pearl. This is best done while the paint is still wet and able to be blended, but not so wet as to lose the reflected color completely. Let the paint dry fairly well, and touch up the reflection if needed. Work with more contrast than you think you need. The color will change when the pearl dries and it will look different from what you painted. PAINTING... JEWELS AND GEMSTONES Painting gemstones are very similar to painting pearls, except that you are not working on top of a base coat of paint. Therefore you must work wet and quickly, before the paint dries out to be able to blend your paint completely. Paint only one or two stones at a time. Fill in your penciled circle with paint all the way around the outer edge and 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the darkest part of the gem. Rinse your brush off in clear water. Blend from the unpainted part of the gem towards the outer edge with long strokes. Rinse your brush often to prevent carrying pigment back into the center. If the paper gets too wet, blot with a clean paper towel. If you get too much pigment in the center portion (that should remain as light as possible) you can rinse your brush well, take CLEAN water and try to scrub off some of the pigment. Use the paper towel to blot up the water and pigment. If you have lost the highlight on the gem completely, it's ok to place a *small* spot of white paint there and blend it in. This can backfire and ruin the gem if done wrong, so use it only as a last resort. If you make a major mistake, let the area dry completely before deciding how you want to proceed. DO NOT PAINT OVER YOUR MISTAKES WITH WHITE PAINT. All too often, the white paint gets mixed into the color making a lovely pastel smudge. Then you will not be able to get the crisp jewel tones needed. - --part1_99.292c87f7.2a5d9199_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings all

Here is the excerpt from my handout on Italian Renaissance scrolls that talks about painting pearls & gems.

It may be hard to follow without the diagrams that go with it. I tried to get them up on my webpage and the server is down. If you have questions, please ask.

Yvianne
AEthelmearc

****************************************************

Layout your design and lightly pencil in your color scheme before painting any gems. Know where you are going to place which colors. This will allow you to paint all of one colored gem at one time rather than stopping to clean your brush after every three or four stones, as well as making sure that your colors are balanced.


PAINTING ... PEARLS
     Use a thin coat of white paint (I prefer zinc white) and completely fill in all of the circles designated as pearls. You can shade them while they are still a little wet, or wait until they are dry and rewet them as necessary. Shading on pearls can be purple, pink, gray, or blue. Paint a line with your shading color around the outer edge of the pearl and 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the darkest part of the pearl. Traditionally light comes from the upper left corner of the scroll, meaning you will want your shadows to be in the lower right portion of the pearls. Make sure you shade all of your pearls and gems with the same light source. It is all to easy to turn your paper to get a better angle to paint and have half of it shaded upside down. It may help you to draw arrows with a pencil for a visual reminder.
     To blend the colors, you will need plenty of clean water to keep your brush free of pigment. Start in the white portion of the pearl and pull your brush through the color towards the outer edge. Wherever you remove your brush from the paper is where you are depositing pigment, so make long strokes as opposed to short, choppy strokes. Rinse your brush often. If the pearl becomes too wet, either dry your brush on a paper towel, or blot...DO NOT WIPE.... the paper with a clean part of the paper towel.

If you want, you may add a reflection from the background (same color as the background) in a curved line on the dark portion of the pearl. This is best done while the paint is still wet and able to be blended, but not so wet as to lose the reflected color completely.  Let the paint dry fairly well, and touch up the reflection if needed.

Work with more contrast than you think you need. The color will change when the pearl dries and it will look different from what you painted.


PAINTING... JEWELS AND GEMSTONES

     Painting gemstones are very similar to painting pearls, except that you are not working on top of a base coat of paint. Therefore you must work wet and quickly, before the paint dries out to be able to blend your paint completely. Paint only one or two stones at a time.
     Fill in your penciled circle with paint all the way around the outer edge and 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the darkest part of the gem. Rinse your brush off in clear water. Blend from the unpainted part of the gem towards the outer edge with long strokes. Rinse your brush often to prevent carrying pigment back into the center. If the paper gets too wet, blot with a clean paper towel. If you get too much pigment in the center portion (that should remain as light as possible) you can rinse your brush well, take CLEAN water and try to scrub off some of the pigment. Use the paper towel to blot up the water and pigment. If you have lost the highlight on the gem completely, it's ok to place a *small* spot of white paint there and blend it in. This can backfire and ruin the gem if done wrong, so use it only as a last resort.

If you make a major mistake, let the area dry completely before deciding how you want to proceed. DO NOT PAINT OVER YOUR MISTAKES WITH WHITE PAINT. All too often, the white paint gets mixed into the color making a lovely pastel smudge. Then you will not be able to get the crisp jewel tones needed.
    
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