From: owner-scribes@castle.org (scribes digest) To: scribes-digest@castle.org Subject: scribes digest V7 #41 Reply-To: Sender: owner-scribes@castle.org Errors-To: owner-scribes@castle.org Precedence: bulk scribes digest Sunday, November 25 2001 Volume 07 : Number 041 ======================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with unsubscribe scribes-digets in the body of the message. Leave the subject line blank. Do not include any additional text. [scribes]: Demon patron of scribes Re: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes Re: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes Re: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes Re:[scribes]:"fixing" mistakes [scribes]: Scribal track update [scribes]: Curing hides for vellum ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 08:41:59 EST From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com Subject: [scribes]: Demon patron of scribes - --part1_1e.1eb1dfb1.292e5aa7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Someone in our Barony found this site. I thought some of you might find it amusing: http://www.titivillus-editorial.com/tes-whois.htm Brandy - --part1_1e.1eb1dfb1.292e5aa7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Someone in our Barony found this site. I thought some of you might find it amusing:

http://www.titivillus-editorial.com/tes-whois.htm

Brandy - --part1_1e.1eb1dfb1.292e5aa7_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 10:26:58 -0500 From: "Sally Burnell" Subject: Re: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes > Hence my questions - are there any ways to minimize paint mistakes (like > splotches) after the fact? Also, are there any ways to correct calligraphy > errors? Greetings! How and if you can repair these kinds of mistakes depends largely on what kind of paper or parchment you are using. I use Arches 140# hot press, which corrects like a dream, because even after 23 years of scribing, I find it next to impossible to do a scroll and not screw it up somehow. I don't think there's a scroll I've done that something hasn't gone wrong, even if it's a minor thing! Anyway, how I correct paint smears, ink smears, calligraphy mistakes and whatnot is to carefully - and I cannot stress this enough - carefully scrape off the mistake with an exacto knife. Be gentle - don't scrape too hard or you'll put a hole in the paper. You're mainly looking to clear the surface of the paper of the offending mistake. Then I go back over the area very lightly and gently with a white plastic eraser to pick up whatever remnants of the mistake are left. Next I take my burnishing stone and carefully burnish the area to crush down the raised paper fibers to minimise bleeding once paint or ink has been re-applied. The final step is to treat that area with gum sandarac, since most papers have sizing on them and the scraping removes that sizing. Voilá! You're ready to resume work! And if you do a good enough job, no one will ever know where you messed up! Hope that helps! Good luck! ~Saradwen Midrealm =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 10:42:01 -0500 From: Subject: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes Hi All, I've found that, depending on the color of paper you're using, and if the goof is small enough, yellow ochre and white gouache make a 'liquid parchment' of sorts (wincing from the collective ::gasp:: of the readership). It works best if it's in an area that will be at least partially painted over, or is out of the direct focus of the scroll, but for smallish goofs and touch ups, it's served me well so far in many a pinch. Do the scraping and burnishing bit first, though, for best results. (Varying the tones with some brown and/or more white allows for stippling over the spot, too, which mimics the parchment a bit better, and makes it even harder to detect unless you're thisclose) YIS, Bebhinn =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 10:54:09 -0500 From: Subject: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes Hi All, I've found that a mixture of yellow ochre and white gouache makes a 'liquid parchment' of sorts (wincing from the collective ::gasp:: of the readership). It works best on smallish goofs that are away from the focus of the scroll, or are likely to be painted over, but it's stood me in good stead when I've been in a pinch. Doing the scraping and burnishing bit first helps. Also, if you vary the tones by adding brown and/or white, then stippling over the spot with a small stencil brush, it mimics the parchment a bit better making it even harder to detect unless you're thisclose. Re-doing calligraphy over the paint gets a bit dicy, but it can be done without looking funky if it's a small enough spot. I've only done this on parchment-colored paper, though, so I can't vouch for it's usefulness on the Real McCoy. In Service, Bebhinn =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 11:59:39 -0600 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes P.S. If you're willing to use a modern tool, an electric eraser with a #73 "white for pencil" strip works wonders. An eraser shield allows for great precision. Corinna - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dani " To: Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2001 6:58 AM Subject: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes > Hi all..... > > After finally getting my paints, finding a suitable practice text, putting > lines on the page, sketching in the illumination and even doing the actual > calligraphy, I have ruined the whole work with a blot of paint. *sigh* After > all the care I took to cover the text, etc.... I opened a new tube of paint > to have a splot of it shoot out and a good foot away, right onto the only > unprotected spot of the project. > > Hence my questions - are there any ways to minimize paint mistakes (like > splotches) after the fact? Also, are there any ways to correct calligraphy > errors? > > Thanks in advance. > > Annys ferch Llewellyn > (Dani) > Lochac - St. Florians > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 11:58:19 -0600 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes Hello Dani and all, It depends a great deal on what sort of ink or paint and what sort of paper or vellum. Real vellum is extremely easy to correct. Mistakes of all sorts can be scraped off with a curved Xacto or scalpel. Medieval scribes would use the quill knife, which works but calls for more re-sharpening - not everyone's favourite chore. On a fine, sturdy paper such as Arches Hotpress or a good bristol board, assuming pigmented paints and inks, scraping followed by erasing with a kneaded rubber will usually work, folowed by burnishing through glassine to restore the writable smoothness of the surface. A little sandarac may help. Pigments stay on the surface, but dyes sink in. If you're using dye-based colours such as fountain pen inks, the paper will be stained and you can pretty much kiss it good-bye. Corinna - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dani " To: Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2001 6:58 AM Subject: [scribes]: "fixing" mistakes > Hi all..... > > After finally getting my paints, finding a suitable practice text, putting > lines on the page, sketching in the illumination and even doing the actual > calligraphy, I have ruined the whole work with a blot of paint. *sigh* After > all the care I took to cover the text, etc.... I opened a new tube of paint > to have a splot of it shoot out and a good foot away, right onto the only > unprotected spot of the project. > > Hence my questions - are there any ways to minimize paint mistakes (like > splotches) after the fact? Also, are there any ways to correct calligraphy > errors? > > Thanks in advance. > > Annys ferch Llewellyn > (Dani) > Lochac - St. Florians > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 11:47:07 -0800 From: Shannon Yoffe Subject: Re:[scribes]:"fixing" mistakes This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C17457.A273F650 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello all, I have found that carefully scratching it off with an exacto knife to be effective, but that all depends on the paper you are using. My favorite way to "fix" a blooper is to make something out of it, like a strawberry, or something that will tie in well with your illumination. Of course you will have to add a few more of whatever you choose as your fix to make it look like it belongs, and to balance everything out, but I never found that to be a problem. Hope this helps, In service to the Dream, Lady Sorca Nuala Ni Domnahl - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C17457.A273F650 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello all,

I have found that carefully scratching it off with an exacto knife to be effective, but that all depends on the paper you are using. My favorite way to "fix" a blooper is to make something out of it, like a strawberry, or something that will tie in well with your illumination. Of course you will have to add a few more of whatever you choose as your fix to make it look like it belongs, and to balance everything out, but I never found that to be a problem. Hope this helps,

In service to the Dream,

Lady Sorca Nuala Ni Domnahl

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C17457.A273F650-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Nov 2001 18:52:03 EST From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com Subject: [scribes]: Scribal track update - --part1_167.4638d4b.29303b23_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For the upcoming University of Atlantia session on February 2nd in Berley Court (Franklin/Courtland, Virginia area): An update on the classes we have so far: Track One: Watercolor Versus Guache by Maestra Caterina de Forza d'Agro -1 hour and either Gilding on Inscribed Gesso or Gilding on Wood (Which class would you like her to teach?)- 2 hours Scribal Materials by Countess Brigit of Mercia - 1 hour Clerk of the Signet's Policies by Lady Genevieve D'Evereux - 1 hour (Need one more hour in classes. Baroness Annejka has offered to teach a class. She wanted to know what class people would like her to teach. She does classes on period pigments, various types of surfaces to put your artwork on, making brushes and some other stuff too. Anything sound interesting? Let me know and I will get in touch with her.) I would like to have at least one class as a backup to be done only if one of the other scheduled classes gets canceled. We can then put this class in place of it. Would anyone like to be a backup instructor? I need backup instructors for the track 2 workshop as well. Track 2: Scribal Workshop for Beginners by the Marinus Scriptorium - 6 hours (This class will teach people how to layout a scroll, introduce them to calligraphy and gold leaf and give some tips on painting scrolls in various mediums. Students will have a partially completed scroll when they leave and the kits will contain a little bit of everything they need to do scrolls.) Kit fee: It is looking like $20.00, but I haven't finalized that yet. Handouts are included in the kit, or can be purchased seperately for $4.00. Limit of 10 students who purchase kits. Observers are welcome. Students may bring their own supplies and should contact me to find out what they will need. I will be putting out more information about this as it draws closer to the University Session. If you would like to teach, or be a backup instructor, Please include the following in your class proposals: SCA and legal name Phone or email Title of class Brief description of class Length of class Enrollment limit, if any Fee, if any Thank you so much for your help, Brandy (Lady Brandwyn Alston of the Rift - Deputy Clerk Signet, Atlantia) - --part1_167.4638d4b.29303b23_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For the upcoming University of Atlantia session on February 2nd in Berley Court (Franklin/Courtland, Virginia area):
An update on the classes we have so far:

Track One:

Watercolor Versus Guache by Maestra Caterina de Forza d'Agro -1 hour
and either Gilding on Inscribed Gesso or Gilding on Wood (Which class would you like her to teach?)- 2 hours

Scribal Materials by Countess Brigit of Mercia - 1 hour

Clerk of the Signet's Policies by Lady Genevieve D'Evereux - 1 hour

(Need one more hour in classes. Baroness Annejka has offered to teach a class. She wanted to know what class people would like her to teach. She does classes on period pigments, various types of surfaces to put your artwork on, making brushes and some other stuff too. Anything sound interesting? Let me know and I will get in touch with her.)

I would like to have at least one class as a backup to be done only if one of the other scheduled classes gets canceled. We can then put this class in place of it. Would anyone like to be a backup instructor? I need backup instructors for the track 2 workshop as well.

Track 2:
Scribal Workshop for Beginners by the Marinus Scriptorium - 6 hours
(This class will teach people how to layout a scroll, introduce them to calligraphy and gold leaf and give some tips on painting scrolls in various mediums. Students will have a partially completed scroll when they leave and the kits will contain a little bit of everything they need to do scrolls.) Kit fee: It is looking like $20.00, but I haven't finalized that yet. Handouts are included in the kit, or can be purchased seperately for $4.00. Limit of 10 students who purchase kits. Observers are welcome. Students may bring their own supplies and should contact me to find out what they will need. I will be putting out more information about this as it draws closer to the University Session.

If you would like to teach, or be a backup instructor,
Please include the following in your class proposals:
SCA and legal name
Phone or email
Title of class
Brief description of class
Length of class
Enrollment limit, if any
Fee, if any

Thank you so much for your help,
Brandy
(Lady Brandwyn Alston of the Rift - Deputy Clerk Signet, Atlantia)
- --part1_167.4638d4b.29303b23_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 11:48:00 EST From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com Subject: [scribes]: Curing hides for vellum - --part1_12a.7e2abfd.29327ac0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings all, Since we were on the subject of vellums, I was wondering if deer hide can make a good surface for working on? I have some hunter friends who are willing to give me a deer hide if they get one this season. Any tips on curing a hide? Anything special that should be done to it to make it into vellum or parchment rather than say suade? Or should I not even try to cure deer hide myself? Brandy - --part1_12a.7e2abfd.29327ac0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings all,
Since we were on the subject of vellums, I was wondering if deer hide can make a good surface for working on? I have some hunter friends who are willing to give me a deer hide if they get one this season.

Any tips on curing a hide? Anything special that should be done to it to make it into vellum or parchment rather than say suade? Or should I not even try to cure deer hide myself?

Brandy - --part1_12a.7e2abfd.29327ac0_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ End of scribes digest V7 #41 ****************************