From: owner-scribes@castle.org (scribes digest) To: scribes-digest@castle.org Subject: scribes digest V7 #21 Reply-To: Sender: owner-scribes@castle.org Errors-To: owner-scribes@castle.org Precedence: bulk scribes digest Sunday, October 7 2001 Volume 07 : Number 021 ======================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with unsubscribe scribes-digets in the body of the message. Leave the subject line blank. Do not include any additional text. Re: [scribes]: lighting RE: [scribes]: lighting Re: [scribes]: lighting Re: [scribes]: Okay, REALLY basic question... Re: [scribes]: lighting Re: [scribes]:palettes- was: Gouche Proportions Re: [scribes]:palettes- was: Gouche Proportions Re: [scribes]:palettes- was: Gouche Proportions Re: [scribes]: Gouche Proportions [scribes]: 12th Night Scroll Contest [scribes]: a strange purchase ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 10:28:07 -0500 (CDT) From: "Pixel, Goddess and Queen" Subject: Re: [scribes]: lighting On Fri, 5 Oct 2001 BRNDALSTON@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/4/2001 5:23:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com writes: > > > > Does anyone have any experience with this sort of lightbulb, and > > would it be worth replacing my architect's lamp's incandescent bulb with > > the fluorescent one? > > > > I am not sure if it would be better or not. Fluorescents are supposed to use > less energy and create less heat, but they can also alter colors that may > mess with your paint choices. > > Just something to consider, > Brandy > That's what I was wondering. Will this "natural light" fluorescent be enough like daylight to not goof up the colors, or should I just continue with what I've been using? Heat isn't so much of a problem--the table is in the basement which is always cool, if not chilly. Margaret =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 11:53:51 -0400 From: "Peters, Rise J." Subject: RE: [scribes]: lighting I use an Ott light for color matching and beadwork and absolutely love it. > -----Original Message----- > From: Pixel, Goddess and Queen [mailto:pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com] > Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 11:28 AM > Cc: scribes@castle.org > Subject: Re: [scribes]: lighting > > > On Fri, 5 Oct 2001 BRNDALSTON@aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 10/4/2001 5:23:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > > pixel@hundred-acre-wood.com writes: > > > > > > > Does anyone have any experience with this sort of lightbulb, and > > > would it be worth replacing my architect's lamp's > incandescent bulb with > > > the fluorescent one? > > > > > > > I am not sure if it would be better or not. Fluorescents > are supposed to use > > less energy and create less heat, but they can also alter > colors that may > > mess with your paint choices. > > > > Just something to consider, > > Brandy > > > That's what I was wondering. Will this "natural light" fluorescent be > enough like daylight to not goof up the colors, or should I > just continue > with what I've been using? Heat isn't so much of a > problem--the table is > in the basement which is always cool, if not chilly. > > Margaret > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 10:51:45 -0500 From: "Amy L. Hornburg Heilveil" Subject: Re: [scribes]: lighting - --=====================_356213547==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 10:28 AM 10/5/2001 -0500, you wrote: >That's what I was wondering. Will this "natural light" fluorescent be >enough like daylight to not goof up the colors, or should I just continue >with what I've been using? Heat isn't so much of a problem--the table is >in the basement which is always cool, if not chilly. Personally, I'd say stay with what you have and what you know. I have worked under the "natural light" florescent while in college and, I will agree, they do better toward shedding natural-type light than regular florescent. I didn't mind it, but then it was the only type of light in the studio area (other than natural sun, of course). But also consider this: You know what you have, you know how to adjust your paints to the light in which you currently live in order to have them come out the way you desire. If you switch lights, you will have to adjust the way you paint. Just a thought. Smiles, Despina - --=====================_356213547==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" At 10:28 AM 10/5/2001 -0500, you wrote:
That's what I was wondering. Will this "natural light" fluorescent be
enough like daylight to not goof up the colors, or should I just continue
with what I've been using? Heat isn't so much of a problem--the table is
in the basement which is always cool, if not chilly.

Personally, I'd say stay with what you have and what you know.  I have worked under the "natural light" florescent while in college and, I will agree, they do better toward shedding natural-type light than regular florescent.  I didn't mind it, but then it was the only type of light in the studio area (other than natural sun, of course).

But also consider this:  You know what you have, you know how to adjust your paints to the light in which you currently live in order to have them come out the way you desire.  If you switch lights, you will have to adjust the way you paint.

Just a thought.

Smiles,
Despina



- --=====================_356213547==_.ALT-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 09:06:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Martha Palotay Subject: Re: [scribes]: Okay, REALLY basic question... > Diapering (previously suggested) is another good generic one. So are acanthus > leaves, if your kingdom permits it (I think there are some which do not?). Why on earth would acanthus leaves be forbidden? They're only *the* most common motif used throughout the centuries! If we're gonna have sumptuary laws, could we at least make them period? Not to mention sensible... (Sorry. Stupid SCA rules that *prevent* people from doing authentic recreation are one of my pet peeves.) Martha Darach, Caid __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 09:40:04 -0700 From: Carolyn_Richardson@prosystemfx.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: lighting I have one of those "natural light" flourescents and I've done scrolls by it. I don't think it alters the colors that much, but then I might have a different kind of bulb than what you'd find in most places. I bought this one at a doll and ceramic show, and they were actually demonstrating it with embroidered needlework. The light looks a bit on the blue side, but the buzzing of the transformer is what really bugs me (it only does it if I leave it on for a while but it drives me nuts). Tetchubah of Greenlake, Caid Cry "Bother" and let loose the Poohs of War... =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 12:57:45 -0400 From: Randy Asplund Subject: Re: [scribes]:palettes- was: Gouche Proportions Daniella, Try looking at any illustration of a scribe at work. This is about as basic a thing to document as the fact that they used brushes. Even shell gold is so called because it was kept in a shell. Proper medieval page painting was just not done on a palette like we use today. That concept is just wrong. They put the paint into shells and for large amounts into little glazed ceramic bowls. Colors were premixed and then applied. In some places these colors may then be wet blended on the page after being applied in many gradations. Sometimes, like in the Renaissance in the K. of Naples (Southern half of Italy) colors were optically blended by laying in thinned wash strokes with glair (egg WHITE) based paint. I have never ever seen any evidence that a palette as we think of it today was used for anything with aqueous media. Oils yeah. You see that all the time. Never for illuminators though. The look in the end would be wrong because of mixing subtle thin shades. It would tend to look more like modern watercolor than illumination. RanthulfR SWRDBABE@aol.com wrote: > > I never thought about the clam shells before! I love it! I am doing an illumination demo at the Walter's Art Gallery Grand Re-Opening and was trying to come up with a way to make my supplies look period. This is a great idea. I have a ton of shells from living in the waterfront area. Do you think you could send me some documentation on using the shells? > > Daniela > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. - -- VISIT RandyAsplund.com To see a Universe of art ranging from Magic: The Gathering to Star Trek and Medieval Manuscripts Randy Asplund (734) 663-0954 Science Fiction and Fantasy Illustration 2101 S. Circle Dr., Ann Arbor, MI. 48103 =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 13:17:12 -0500 From: Janice Safran Subject: Re: [scribes]:palettes- was: Gouche Proportions Here is the definition of 'shell gold' from Stanford University's online conservation dictionary: it mentions the period practice of using shells. Shell gold : Gold leaf that has been reduced to powder form by grinding it with honey, which is then washed away. It is used to produce powdered effects on leather bindings, to repair or restore gold tooling, and for gilding manuscripts. Very early gold "tooling" of the Near East may have been shell gold, or something like it, painted on the leather. The name derives from the mussel shells it was once stored in. Today it is available in tablet form. See also: GOLD-POWDERED BINDINGS . (152 , 236 ) - -- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 12:29:49 -0500 From: David Nolan/Kara Westfall Subject: Re: [scribes]:palettes- was: Gouche Proportions Do you think you - -=>could send me some documentation on using the shells? There's a picture in one of the books in the Craftman's series-- I think it's called Painting, or something like that, that shows an actual clamshell with paint still in it. Maybe someone else can help me with specifics on the name of the book? Chiara da Ravenna Stonemarche, East (NH) =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 18:03:15 -0500 From: "Helen Schultz" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Gouche Proportions This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C14DC8.016CF3C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yes, and yes. It will definitely help. Adding the gum arabic helps to = keep your paints from smearing when erasing around them or if you = accidentally rub your fingers across them after they have dried. = Remember, just a drop is all you need, more than a drop makes your paint = very glossy, like acrylics. KHvS ----- Original Message -----=20 From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com=20 To: scribes@castle.org=20 Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [scribes]: Gouche Proportions In a message dated 10/4/2001 6:43:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, = meisterin@comteck.com writes:=20 One other thing you should know (after the good info given so far) = is that you will need to add one drop (from the end of a brush is good = enough) of gum arabic to your paint when you mix it up for the first = time (or after about 5 rehydrations). W&N doesn't put enough into their = tubes of gouache when shipping, but usually add more glycerin (which you = don't particularly want to mix in if it has already separated). =20 Does the gum arabic help to keep the paint from being powdery when it = dries? I have some yellow that is very old and just seems to flake off. = Will adding gum arabic to it help elminate that problem?=20 Brandy=20 - ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C14DC8.016CF3C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Yes, and yes.  It will definitely = help. =20 Adding the gum arabic helps to keep your paints from smearing when = erasing=20 around them or if you accidentally rub your fingers across them after = they have=20 dried.  Remember, just a drop is all you need, more than a drop = makes your=20 paint very glossy, like acrylics.
 
KHvS
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 BRNDALSTON@aol.com
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 = 10:25=20 AM
Subject: Re: [scribes]: Gouche=20 Proportions

In a = message dated=20 10/4/2001 6:43:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, meisterin@comteck.com = writes:=20


One other thing you should know (after the good info = given so=20 far) is that you will need to add one drop (from the end of a brush = is good=20 enough) of gum arabic to your paint when you mix it up for the first = time=20 (or after about 5 rehydrations).  W&N doesn't put enough = into their=20 tubes of gouache when shipping, but usually add more glycerin (which = you=20 don't particularly want to mix in if it has already separated).=20  

Does the gum arabic = help to keep=20 the paint from being powdery when it dries? I have some yellow that is = very=20 old and just seems to flake off. Will adding gum arabic to it help = elminate=20 that problem?

Brandy - ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C14DC8.016CF3C0-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 09:25:16 -0700 From: "Tammy L. Williams" Subject: [scribes]: 12th Night Scroll Contest AN TIR TWELFETH NIGHT SCRIBAL BACKLOG BURNDOWN CONTEST This 12th Night the Scribe's office is sponsorring a contest for original award scrolls that have been completed since last 12th Night. The intent of the contest it to reduce the Kingdom Scribe's backlog so please contact Sable Sable/Companion Celdae for an assignment (see the Kingdom webpage under Heraldry officers or check the Crier for additional contact info under the Heralds' listings). Categories are: Best Calligraphy, Best Novice effort (one of the scribe's first four original scrolls), Heralds' Choice (best use of heraldry on the scroll), and Populace choice. All in attendance at 12th Night will receive a ballot/comment card. Information to be provided by entrant: their name and contact information, the calligrapher's name and contact information if different, their experience level(s) at the time the scroll was made, documentation for heraldry used on the scroll (registered - what and to whom), any documentation for the style of illumination/calligraphy they would like to provide and what award the scroll is for - Kingdom or sub-branch (the heraldry category is sponsorred by the herald's office and is open to all scrolls using heraldry, the other categories are limited to the backlog). Please bring the scroll in something which can be used to display it (temporary frame with hanger on back). If room permits they will be displayed on tables, though they probably will be hung. Please contact me if you are entering so I know how much space will be needed. My contact info: Tamlyn of Wyntersea (425-497-1038 or reply to this e-mail). If you don't see this on one of the lists you are subscribed to after this week please post it for me - Thanks:-) =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 08:41:05 -0700 From: "Rozanne" Subject: [scribes]: a strange purchase Instead of going to GWW V I decided to give my allergies a break. Yesterday I was invited to a RenFaire and in my search for an ink I can love to work with I purchased a wierd little package of "Bourdeaux Superior Ink Powder". The instructions say to mix it with an ounce of white wine! (water will do in a pinch, apparently) Has anybody ever heard of this stuff? Theophania d'Alexandre =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ End of scribes digest V7 #21 ****************************