From: owner-scribes@castle.org (scribes digest) To: scribes-digest@castle.org Subject: scribes digest V7 #10 Reply-To: Sender: owner-scribes@castle.org Errors-To: owner-scribes@castle.org Precedence: bulk scribes digest Saturday, September 22 2001 Volume 07 : Number 010 ======================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with unsubscribe scribes-digets in the body of the message. Leave the subject line blank. Do not include any additional text. Re: [scribes]: Seagull Feathers Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: Erasers [scribes]: new tools Re: [scribes]: Pencils Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Re: [scribes]: new tools Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: new tools Re: [scribes]: Arthurian Heraldry - off-topic Re: [scribes]: Greetings and a question Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: Seagull Feathers Re: [scribes]: Erasers ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:54:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Peter Steiner Subject: Re: [scribes]: Seagull Feathers - --- Sally Burnell wrote: > It's really easy around here to find seagull feathers (they're > EVERYWHERE > these days, especially large parking lots!). That is what I was > trying to > cut to make a quill. So, has anybody else tried them and are they > worth > using? Lady Saradwen, You would do well to avoid Seagull feathers...as well as the feathers of any other wild bird. The US is experiencing an epidemic of West Nile Virus in all our bird populations. The disease can be spread to humans. If you choose to collect Seagull feathers, you should also be aware that they often contain mites (tiny insect parasites) which are another vector for disease transmission. Seagulls are beautiful, when viewed from a distance; but remember that they are scavengers by nature. They come in contact with the most amazing variety of nasty, decaying critters. At the very least you should wear latex gloves while handling raw feathers - and spray those feathers liberally with insecticide before touching them. "Schultz House & Garden Bug Spray" is a good choice, because the active ingredient (an extract of Chrysanthemum flowers) is non-toxic to humans and pets. Insecticide will take care of the mites - but not the West Nile Virus. Clean, safe domestic Turkey feathers are available at most fabric stores. You be the judge.... :-) Peter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 23:19:53 -0500 From: Dave Nolan/Kara Westfall Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers Speaking in broad generalizations here: White plastic eraser is for use on fairly smooth surfaces. They won't leave marks or tear up the paper. Gum eraser is for paper with a lot of tooth, like cold pressed and rough watercolor papers. It is less likely to burnish down the texture, or leave a residue that will interfere with the paint. Kneaded erasers are probably (IMO) best suited for charcoal, since they pick up the dust rather than push it around. When these erasers get too dirty to use, you can actually clean them by stretching and breaking the wad repeatedly,(like you used to do with Silly Putty) someplace that you don't mind getting covered in carbon. Obviously, there are many other uses for all of these, I'm just telling you what I learned in school and in the art supply store I used to work in. The question of what they are made of and are they archival is an interesting one--I'll have to see if I can research that. Hmmm... Chiara da Ravenna Stonemarche, East =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 01:01:54 EDT From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers - --part1_6.1c754649.28dd7542_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 9/21/2001 4:28:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, uncial@ix.netcom.com writes: > Thank you for the information on silverpoint. The only time I did it, I had > to make a small correction. I used a white strip in an electric eraser, and > got a perfectly clean erasure. I couldn't imagine why silverpoint was > supposed to be so hard to correct - until I tried to draw over! I ended up > using a very hard pencil to redraw that bit. It matches fairly well now, > but as the silver tarnishes it might not. Luckily it's a very small bit... > When you erased that spot, you probably removed or covered up the zinc in the paper (gesso, or whatever your background was) so when you tried to draw over it with the silverpoint it didn't work. The reason for this is because when you touch the silver to the prepared surface of the paper (with modern acrylic gesso, period gesso, or zinc powder) their is a chemical reaction which causes the silver to oxidize and that is what gives you the line. If you remove the zinc, then there is no chemical reaction. So, to fix that problem, you should have been able to sprinkle a bit of zinc powder over that spot, pour off the excess and then redraw your line. I have only recently learned about silverpoint, so I might be in error. But I think that is what happens with it. Please correct me if I am wrong. Brandy (Deputy Clerk of the Signet, Atlantia) - --part1_6.1c754649.28dd7542_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 9/21/2001 4:28:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, uncial@ix.netcom.com writes:


Thank you for the information on silverpoint.  The only time I did it, I had
to make a small correction.  I used a white strip in an electric eraser, and
got a perfectly clean erasure.  I couldn't imagine why silverpoint was
supposed to be so hard to correct - until I tried to draw over!  I ended up
using a very hard pencil to redraw that bit.  It matches fairly well now,
but as the silver tarnishes it might not.  Luckily it's a very small bit...


When you erased that spot, you probably removed or covered up the zinc in the paper (gesso, or whatever your background was) so when you tried to draw over it with the silverpoint it didn't work. The reason for this is because when you touch the silver to the prepared surface of the paper (with modern acrylic gesso, period gesso, or zinc powder) their is a chemical reaction which causes the silver to oxidize and that is what gives you the line. If you remove the zinc, then there is no chemical reaction. So, to fix that problem, you should have been able to sprinkle a bit of zinc powder over that spot, pour off the excess and then redraw your line.

I have only recently learned about silverpoint, so I might be in error. But I think that is what happens with it. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Brandy
(Deputy Clerk of the Signet, Atlantia) - --part1_6.1c754649.28dd7542_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 01:16:38 EDT From: Floriligeum@aol.com Subject: [scribes]: new tools - --part1_33.1b478b45.28dd78b6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just received a box of goodies. I was lucky enough to get a gift of spending $ for the Paper & Ink catalog and today my package arrived! I have a set of 10 new Mitchell Rexel nibs, and some Brause nibs as well as a few different nib holders, so now I can start to break my addiction to the Rotring cartridge pens. And can start to try the advice you all shared with me on colored "inks." Trying to keep this post on topic, I am wondering which nibs you all think I should start with. The nibs on the Rotring are VERY stiff and I tend to hold my pen with what has been called the "death grip." I am hoping to eventually be able to move toward making & using quills, but I think at this point I would kill them. (I have visions of the split traveling up the shaft of the quill.) So until I learn some better control, which nibs should I start with? (I also got one Hiro nib, but that one is really tiny, and I don't expect to use it for anything but detail work.) Thanks for all your help so far. Yours in service, Sarra the Lymner Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom MKA Sarah Dressler Sarra's Florilegium www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com Fear knocked at the door, hope answered, and no one was there. - --part1_33.1b478b45.28dd78b6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just received a box of goodies.  I was lucky enough to get a gift of spending $ for the Paper & Ink catalog and today my package arrived!  

I have a set of 10 new Mitchell Rexel nibs, and some Brause nibs as well as a few different nib holders, so now I can start to break my addiction to the Rotring cartridge pens.  And can start to try the advice you all shared with me on colored "inks."  

Trying to keep this post on topic, I am wondering which nibs you all think I should start with.  The nibs on the Rotring are VERY stiff and I tend to hold my pen with what has been called the "death grip."  I am hoping to eventually be able to move toward making & using quills, but I think at this point I would kill them. (I have visions of the split traveling up the shaft of the quill.)  So until I learn some better control, which nibs should I start with?  (I also got one Hiro nib, but that one is really tiny, and I don't expect to use it for anything but detail work.)

Thanks for all your help so far.



Yours in service,

Sarra the Lymner

Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom
MKA Sarah Dressler
Sarra's Florilegium
www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com

Fear knocked at the door, hope answered, and no one was there. - --part1_33.1b478b45.28dd78b6_boundary-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 00:18:19 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Pencils I prefer a 2mm lead in a heavy metal holder. Depending on the surface, I generally use H or 2H. I have a needle-sharp point and never press but allow the weight of the pencil to provide the pressure. The result is a very light fine line that's easy to erase. Corinna - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jean-Paul Blaquiere" To: Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 10:51 PM Subject: Re: [scribes]: Pencils > > On Sep 21, Martin Higgins illuminated with a virtual scribe : > > > I'm actually glad you mentioned that..... I always found .5 mechanical pens > > quite versatile and great to do work with... but even years after being > > taught by a professional artist not to use them I have been quite reluctant. > > Might be dragging the pencil out again and giving it another go > > > The 0.3mm are also quite wonderful. I find the give a very fine light line > which you can do with a 0.5 but turning the pencil all the time gets > annoying. (to keep the sharp edge on the paper) > > > /jp... > -- > Jean-Paul Blaquière || Avatar of Computational > jeanpaul@ichr.uwa.edu.au || Thaumaturgy > Democracy is based on the premise that a million men are wiser than > one man. How's that again? I missed something? -- Lazarus Long > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 22:34:16 -0700 From: Karen Williams Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) "Laura F. Jenkins" wrote: > > Can someone talk a little bit more about the > curing process? I've tried heating the quills > in hot sand but they never seem to harden > enough (well except for the one that I charred :) > Can someone give hints as to how hot, how > long, etc. to get the proper hardness. First, I soak them in water over night. I heat the sand in a pan on top of the stove. When it feels hot to the touch, but not scalding (about how it would feel to your feet on a really hot day at the beach), I put the ends of the quills in for about thirty seconds. If they need a few more seconds, I stick them back in. Branwen ferch Emrys =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 01:44:58 EDT From: Luiseach@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: new tools In a message dated 09/21/01 10:20:28 PM, Floriligeum@aol.com writes, inquiring about changing her nibs: << I have a set of 10 new Mitchell Rexel nibs, and some Brause nibs as well as a few different nib holders, >> The Brauses are stiffer than the Mitchellls, so you might want to start with them. My 2¢, YMMV Luighseach =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 03:15:24 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C14314.D1FCD820 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Brandy, thank you for the explanation. I was using a commercially = prepared silverpoint paper. I had once been told that it was the = texture of the gesso that pulled tiny bits of silver onto it, rather = like sandpaper, but this stuff is very smooth. Chemistry makes a lot = more sense. I use zinc as a nutritional supplement. Will powdering one of the pills = work or do I need to buy it from a scientific supply shop? Corinna ----- Original Message -----=20 From: BRNDALSTON@aol.com=20 To: scribes@castle.org=20 Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 12:01 AM Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers In a message dated 9/21/2001 4:28:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, = uncial@ix.netcom.com writes:=20 Thank you for the information on silverpoint. The only time I did = it, I had=20 to make a small correction. I used a white strip in an electric = eraser, and=20 got a perfectly clean erasure. I couldn't imagine why silverpoint = was=20 supposed to be so hard to correct - until I tried to draw over! I = ended up=20 using a very hard pencil to redraw that bit. It matches fairly well = now,=20 but as the silver tarnishes it might not. Luckily it's a very small = bit...=20 When you erased that spot, you probably removed or covered up the zinc = in the paper (gesso, or whatever your background was) so when you tried = to draw over it with the silverpoint it didn't work. The reason for this = is because when you touch the silver to the prepared surface of the = paper (with modern acrylic gesso, period gesso, or zinc powder) their is = a chemical reaction which causes the silver to oxidize and that is what = gives you the line. If you remove the zinc, then there is no chemical = reaction. So, to fix that problem, you should have been able to sprinkle = a bit of zinc powder over that spot, pour off the excess and then redraw = your line.=20 I have only recently learned about silverpoint, so I might be in = error. But I think that is what happens with it. Please correct me if I = am wrong.=20 Brandy=20 (Deputy Clerk of the Signet, Atlantia)=20 - ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C14314.D1FCD820 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Brandy, thank you for the = explanation.  I was=20 using a commercially prepared silverpoint paper.  I had once been = told that=20 it was the texture of the gesso that pulled tiny bits of silver onto it, = rather=20 like sandpaper, but this stuff is very smooth.  Chemistry makes a = lot more=20 sense.
 
I use zinc as a nutritional = supplement.  Will=20 powdering one of the pills work or do I need to buy it from a scientific = supply=20 shop?
 
Corinna
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 BRNDALSTON@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 22, = 2001 12:01=20 AM
Subject: Re: [scribes]: = Erasers

In a = message dated=20 9/21/2001 4:28:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, uncial@ix.netcom.com writes:=20


Thank you for the information on silverpoint.  The = only=20 time I did it, I had
to make a small correction.  I used a = white=20 strip in an electric eraser, and
got a perfectly clean erasure. =  I=20 couldn't imagine why silverpoint was
supposed to be so hard to = correct -=20 until I tried to draw over!  I ended up
using a very hard = pencil to=20 redraw that bit.  It matches fairly well now,
but as the = silver=20 tarnishes it might not.  Luckily it's a very small bit...=20


When you erased that = spot, you=20 probably removed or covered up the zinc in the paper (gesso, or = whatever your=20 background was) so when you tried to draw over it with the silverpoint = it=20 didn't work. The reason for this is because when you touch the silver = to the=20 prepared surface of the paper (with modern acrylic gesso, period = gesso, or=20 zinc powder) their is a chemical reaction which causes the silver to = oxidize=20 and that is what gives you the line. If you remove the zinc, then = there is no=20 chemical reaction. So, to fix that problem, you should have been able = to=20 sprinkle a bit of zinc powder over that spot, pour off the excess and = then=20 redraw your line.

I have only recently learned about = silverpoint, so I=20 might be in error. But I think that is what happens with it. Please = correct me=20 if I am wrong.

Brandy
(Deputy Clerk of the Signet,=20 Atlantia) - ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C14314.D1FCD820-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 03:27:31 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: new tools This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C14316.83672100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings Sarra, Brause is a stiffer nib, requiring less subtlety in handling, and works = better with a reservoir. Rexell work well with gouache and for = press-and-release techniques. Rexel nibs require preparation before their first use. Immerse them in = boiling water for a couple of minutes - you'll know when they're cooked = because they change colour. This removes the shellac coating that = prevents rust before they're sold. Next, pass them three or four times = through the hottest part of a candle flame. This distempers them so = they're even more flexible. At least, this is the way I was taught by = Reggie Ezell. Frankly, I seldom bother and don't really notice much = difference! Brause should be cleaned before first use with ammonia, = alcohol, or even spit to remove the thin coating of mineral oil that = protects it. Either nib should be wiped with a little gum arabic before = use. This gives the ink/paint something to grab so you control the flow = and it doesn't just fall out of the pen. Dip nibs, especially Rexel, sometimes have one or other corner too sharp = so they catch the paper. This can be fixed with a few gently strokes on = a piece of crocus cloth. A fine hard Indiana or Arkansas stone will = work too, but nothing coarser or you'll take off too much nib too fast. A "death grip" and a light touch are not mutually exclusive. I deveoped = a heavy grip when I had carpal tunnel syndrome and couldn't feel the = pen, but I still had a light enough touch on the paper to do pressurized = and manipulated techniques. I'm still working at a lighter grip. It = should be loose enough for someone to take the pen from you without = resistance. Try squeezing a small rubber ball, grip exerciser or even a = wad of tissue in the other hand. Corinna Midrealm ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Floriligeum@aol.com=20 To: scribes@castle.org=20 Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 12:16 AM Subject: [scribes]: new tools I just received a box of goodies. I was lucky enough to get a gift of = spending $ for the Paper & Ink catalog and today my package arrived! =20 I have a set of 10 new Mitchell Rexel nibs, and some Brause nibs as = well as a few different nib holders, so now I can start to break my = addiction to the Rotring cartridge pens. And can start to try the = advice you all shared with me on colored "inks." =20 Trying to keep this post on topic, I am wondering which nibs you all = think I should start with. The nibs on the Rotring are VERY stiff and I = tend to hold my pen with what has been called the "death grip." I am = hoping to eventually be able to move toward making & using quills, but I = think at this point I would kill them. (I have visions of the split = traveling up the shaft of the quill.) So until I learn some better = control, which nibs should I start with? (I also got one Hiro nib, but = that one is really tiny, and I don't expect to use it for anything but = detail work.)=20 Thanks for all your help so far.=20 Yours in service,=20 Sarra the Lymner=20 Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom=20 MKA Sarah Dressler=20 Sarra's Florilegium=20 www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com=20 Fear knocked at the door, hope answered, and no one was there.=20 - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C14316.83672100 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Greetings Sarra,
 
Brause is a stiffer nib, requiring less = subtlety in=20 handling, and works better with a reservoir.  Rexell work well with = gouache=20 and for press-and-release techniques.
 
Rexel nibs require preparation before = their first=20 use.  Immerse them in boiling water for a couple of minutes - = you'll know=20 when they're cooked because they change colour.  This removes the = shellac=20 coating that prevents rust before they're sold.  Next, pass them = three or=20 four times through the hottest part of a candle flame.  This = distempers=20 them so they're even more flexible.  At least, this is the way I = was taught=20 by Reggie Ezell.  Frankly, I seldom bother and don't really notice = much=20 difference!  Brause should be cleaned before first use with = ammonia,=20 alcohol, or even spit to remove the thin coating of mineral oil that = protects=20 it.  Either nib should be wiped with a little gum arabic before = use. =20 This gives the ink/paint something to grab so you control the flow and = it=20 doesn't just fall out of the pen.
 
Dip nibs, especially Rexel, sometimes = have one or=20 other corner too sharp so they catch the paper.  This can be fixed = with a=20 few gently strokes on a piece of crocus cloth.  A fine hard Indiana = or=20 Arkansas stone will work too, but nothing coarser or you'll take off too = much=20 nib too fast.
 
A "death grip" and a light touch are = not mutually=20 exclusive.  I deveoped a heavy grip when I had carpal tunnel = syndrome and=20 couldn't feel the pen, but I still had a light enough touch on the paper = to do=20 pressurized and manipulated techniques.  I'm still working at a = lighter=20 grip.  It should be loose enough for someone to take the pen from = you=20 without resistance.  Try squeezing a small rubber ball, grip = exerciser or=20 even a wad of tissue in the other hand.
 
Corinna
Midrealm
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Floriligeum@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 22, = 2001 12:16=20 AM
Subject: [scribes]: new = tools

I just received a box of goodies.  I = was lucky=20 enough to get a gift of spending $ for the Paper & Ink catalog and = today=20 my package arrived!  

I have a set of 10 new Mitchell = Rexel nibs,=20 and some Brause nibs as well as a few different nib holders, so now I = can=20 start to break my addiction to the Rotring cartridge pens.  And = can start=20 to try the advice you all shared with me on colored "inks."  =20

Trying to keep this post on topic, I am wondering which nibs = you all=20 think I should start with.  The nibs on the Rotring are VERY = stiff and I=20 tend to hold my pen with what has been called the "death grip." =  I am=20 hoping to eventually be able to move toward making & using quills, = but I=20 think at this point I would kill them. (I have visions of the split = traveling=20 up the shaft of the quill.)  So until I learn some better = control, which=20 nibs should I start with?  (I also got one Hiro nib, but that one = is=20 really tiny, and I don't expect to use it for anything but detail = work.)=20

Thanks for all your help so far.



Yours in = service,=20

Sarra the Lymner

Caer Adamant (DE), East Kingdom =
MKA Sarah=20 Dressler
Sarra's=20 Florilegium
www.sarrasflorilegium.knownworldweb.com =

Fear=20 knocked at the door, hope answered, and no one was there.=20 - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C14316.83672100-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 10:35:22 +0000 From: "Russell Husted" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Arthurian Heraldry - off-topic Corinna, The absolute best starting place for anyone on heraldry is called "Harold the Herald". You will find it, if you are lucky in the childrens section of your local library. Although they are pre heraldry, there are arms for atleast Arthur...infact I believe he has 2 or 3 different sets of arms. Some of the other knights of legend have them as well. They can be found. your servant, mahee middle school teacher Greetings all. A friend contacted me today to request help with his son's resesarch for a school project drawing the arms of the Knights of the Round Table. After telling him that 1) they were fictitious and 2) several hundred years before the development of a formal system of heraldry, I recommended Sir Arthur Fox-Davies Encyclopedia of Heraldry (I'm not sure of the exact title, but I mean the huge book, not the Dover reprint of selected pages) or other basic guide to heraldry, and simply read the various accepted versions such as Mallory for descriptions. If anyone has other ideas, especially book titles, I would be happy to pass them along to my friend. He is not on the internet, though I assume his son has access through his school or library. Corinna Midrealm _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 10:52:04 +0000 From: "Russell Husted" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Greetings and a question reed pens...the secret to them is the angle you hold your pen. It should be almost level. They are very porous, and were used long before the feather was. Let them pick up as much ink as they want, you will increase their life span that way. make sure your reed is dry first. I have used green reed before, but the results were not so good. Keep playing with them. I think you will find that they are very good for non-preasure sensetive scripts. It does take a while to learn the perfect shape though. your servant, mahee I've only tried quill cutting once, but I knew very little at the time about doing it, so it really didn't turn out too well, so while we're on this topic, I'd like to ask this question: It's really easy around here to find seagull feathers (they're EVERYWHERE these days, especially large parking lots!). That is what I was trying to cut to make a quill. So, has anybody else tried them and are they worth using? I also tried, using my trusty battered copy of Johnston, to cut reed pens. Well....it was certainly an interesting experiment! Actually, they didn't write so badly! They were a bit absorbant of the ink, since reeds are generally porous, but still, I was rather amazed at the results. Not sure I'd use on on a Kingdom scroll, but it was sure fun playing around with them! ~Saradwen Midrealm =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:05:26 +0000 From: "Russell Husted" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers The answers I have seen to this question are absolutley wonderful. I have only a tiny bit to add. White plasic erasers can smear your ink if you are not careful. The tan ones will crumble a lot as you go and do less damage to ink usually:-) gray kneaded erasers, keep them warm while you are using them. I was told to carry it in my armpit on the way to class so it would be reaady by the time I got there. Also, they are not used to scrub the line off the page. You can seriously start by pressing them onto the paper softly and lifting. All depends on what you are trying to remove. I use all three and I use them in different combinations depending on what I am doing and what I am doing it on. as others have said, play with them and find what you like. end of my 1/2 bit your servant, mahee I have three erasers that came in a set and I don't know what the differences are between them. They are a white plastic eraser, a tan gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser. Can someone with more background than I have please tell me the difference between them and what they are best used for? In Service, Anezka z Rozmitala Barony of Elfsea, Ansteorra =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 07:30:34 -0400 From: "Sally Burnell" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Seagull Feathers > You would do well to avoid Seagull feathers...as well as the feathers > of any other wild bird. The US is experiencing an epidemic of West > Nile Virus in all our bird populations. The disease can be spread to > humans. Oh, good point. Well, the last time I even tried to do anything with them was about a dozen years ago now, so....................guess if I decide to try cutting my own quills I will go to a store and buy good turkey feathers. Thanks for the valuable information! ~Saradwen Midrealm =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 12:03:52 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers The gray kneaded eraser can sometimes be used to lift the remains of a wet correction. The mistake is first wet with water applied with a q-tip or brush and as much as possible lifted with a dry q-tip, kleenex, whatever. Then the kneaded rubber is pressed fairly hard and lifts the residue while still damp. Please note that I've only done this on Winsor & Newton gold ink on paper. It works about 75% of the time. Corinna - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Husted" To: ; Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 6:05 AM Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers > The answers I have seen to this question are absolutley wonderful. I have > only a tiny bit to add. > > White plasic erasers can smear your ink if you are not careful. The tan ones > will crumble a lot as you go and do less damage to ink usually:-) > > gray kneaded erasers, keep them warm while you are using them. I was told to > carry it in my armpit on the way to class so it would be reaady by the > time I got there. Also, they are not used to scrub the line off the page. > You can seriously start by pressing them onto the paper softly and lifting. > All depends on what you are trying to remove. > > I use all three and I use them in different combinations depending on what I > am doing and what I am doing it on. > > as others have said, play with them and find what you like. > > end of my 1/2 bit > > your servant, > mahee > > > I have three erasers that came in a set and I don't know what the > differences are between them. They are a white plastic eraser, a tan > gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser. Can someone with more > background than I have please tell me the difference between them and > what they are best used for? > > In Service, > Anezka z Rozmitala > Barony of Elfsea, Ansteorra > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ End of scribes digest V7 #10 ****************************