From: owner-scribes@castle.org (scribes digest) To: scribes-digest@castle.org Subject: scribes digest V7 #9 Reply-To: Sender: owner-scribes@castle.org Errors-To: owner-scribes@castle.org Precedence: bulk scribes digest Friday, September 21 2001 Volume 07 : Number 009 ======================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with unsubscribe scribes-digets in the body of the message. Leave the subject line blank. Do not include any additional text. Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: Erasers [scribes]: Arthurian Heraldry - off-topic Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: Arthurian Heraldry - off-topic Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]: Pencils (Was Erasers) Re: [scribes]: Erasers Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) [scribes]: Re:Erasers Re: [scribes]: Pencils Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Re: [scribes]: Greetings and a question Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Re: [scribes]: Pencils ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:19:32 -0300 From: "Martin Higgins" Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) thanks for the clues on Peafowl quills, will certainly give this a try, and will be very careful (why did I just heard those words in my head as if Elmer Fudd was saying them? ) when splitting the nib. When I get back from the weekend will haul off and do it and let you know how they turned out :o) Griet =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 12:36:59 -0500 From: "Amy L. Hornburg Heilveil" Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) - --=====================_189585179==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 02:19 PM 9/21/2001 -0300, Martin Higgins wrote: >thanks for the clues on Peafowl quills, will certainly give this a try, and >will be very careful (why did I just heard those words in my head as if >Elmer Fudd was saying them? ) when splitting the nib. I wasn't taught to split the nib and so I don't. My quills work beautifully. Anyone else? Despina - --=====================_189585179==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" At 02:19 PM 9/21/2001 -0300, Martin Higgins wrote:

thanks for the clues on Peafowl quills, will certainly give this a try, and
will be very careful (why did I just heard those words in my head as if
Elmer Fudd was saying them? <G>) when splitting the nib.

I wasn't taught to split the nib and so I don't. My quills work beautifully. Anyone else?

Despina

- --=====================_189585179==_.ALT-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 12:47:56 -0500 From: "Kate Rayburn" Subject: [scribes]: Erasers I have three erasers that came in a set and I don't know what the differences are between them. They are a white plastic eraser, a tan gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser. Can someone with more background than I have please tell me the difference between them and what they are best used for? In Service, Anezka z Rozmitala Barony of Elfsea, Ansteorra =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 13:45:57 -0500 (CDT) From: sburnell@raex.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers > I have three erasers that came in a set and I don't know what the > differences are between them. They are a white plastic eraser, a tan > gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser. Can someone with more > background than I have please tell me the difference between them and > what they are best used for? My Lady, DON'T used a gum eraser for doing a scroll. Your best bet is to go with the white plastic eraser. The gum eraser will leave a residue on your paper. (I use Arches 140# hot press paper, BTW.) What specifically they are used for in art, well, lacking a studio art education (my art education is specifically art history with a specialisation in Mediaeval and Renaissance art), I couldn't tell you specifically what they are used for, but I know that my mom and my sister, both of whom are artists, have them in their art boxes. I only use a white plastic eraser because all I do is scribal stuff, and I use a technical pencil to draw the "cartoon" for the illumination before I ink it and paint it. Wish I could tell you more, but I'll leave that to those who've gone to Art School to do that. Master Ranthulfr? You're one of the professionally art school trained artists here - maybe you could further enlighten this lady? ~Saradwen Midrealm =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 16:21:42 -0300 From: "Martin Higgins" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers > They are a white plastic eraser, a tan > gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser Well I think they are all good, though I prefer the gum.... but ask anyone and they will prob all have a diff favorite. The kneadables are cool, you can make em into a tiny eraser or a bigger fat one, the white ones are not so crumbly like the tan ones but I find the tan ones remove the lines cleaner. I would say...sketch, draw, whatever and experiment with them and decide for yourself which you prefer for what as I think it a rather personal decision. Hope it helps :o) Griet =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:47:09 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: [scribes]: Arthurian Heraldry - off-topic This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C142AC.4A479D60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings all. A friend contacted me today to request help with his son's resesarch for = a school project drawing the arms of the Knights of the Round Table. After telling him that 1) they were fictitious and 2) several hundred = years before the development of a formal system of heraldry, I = recommended Sir Arthur Fox-Davies Encyclopedia of Heraldry (I'm not sure = of the exact title, but I mean the huge book, not the Dover reprint of = selected pages) or other basic guide to heraldry, and simply read the = various accepted versions such as Mallory for descriptions. If anyone has other ideas, especially book titles, I would be happy to = pass them along to my friend. He is not on the internet, though I = assume his son has access through his school or library. Corinna Midrealm - ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C142AC.4A479D60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Greetings all.

A friend contacted me today to request = help with=20 his son's resesarch for a school project drawing the arms of the Knights = of the=20 Round Table.

After telling him that 1) they were = fictitious and=20 2) several hundred years before the development of a formal system of = heraldry,=20 I recommended Sir Arthur Fox-Davies Encyclopedia of Heraldry (I'm not = sure of=20 the exact title, but I mean the huge book, not the Dover reprint of = selected=20 pages) or other basic guide to heraldry, and simply read the various = accepted=20 versions such as Mallory for descriptions.

If anyone has other ideas, especially = book titles,=20 I would be happy to pass them along to my friend. He is not on the = internet, though I assume his son has access through his school or=20 library.

Corinna

Midrealm

- ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C142AC.4A479D60-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:49:07 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Where do you get peafowl wing feathers? Corinna - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Martin Higgins" To: Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 12:19 PM Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) > thanks for the clues on Peafowl quills, will certainly give this a try, and > will be very careful (why did I just heard those words in my head as if > Elmer Fudd was saying them? ) when splitting the nib. > > When I get back from the weekend will haul off and do it and let you know > how they turned out :o) > > Griet > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:51:32 -0500 From: "N.D. Wederstrandt" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers > > They are a white plastic eraser, a tan >> gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser > >Well I think they are all good, though I prefer the gum.... but ask anyone >and they will prob all have a diff favorite. The kneadables are cool, you >can make em into a tiny eraser or a bigger fat one, the white ones are not >so crumbly like the tan ones but I find the tan ones remove the lines >cleaner. I would say...sketch, draw, whatever and experiment with them >and decide for yourself which you prefer for what as I think it a rather >personal decision. >Hope it helps :o) I've used them all and with varying results. The hard plastic can sometime tear up papers that have a lot of texture and are loosely sized. The hard white ones are good but you have to be careful because they can crease the paper.... Kneaded erasers are cool because you can shape them but they gather things quickly (lint, cat hair and start leaving smudge marks when they get dirty. I wind up a lot using the plastic and the art gum erasers.....Failing that I scrape...... Here's something I found in one of my books at work (not the best but not bad) - "Silverpoint drawings were corrected with bread, because this left the surface undamaged. Nowadays, rubbers (British book) perform the same function. The common India rubber is adequate but tends to retain grey particles and cause smudging. The more modern plaster rubbers and artgum erasers over come this problem to an extent.'" (Colin Hayes, The Complete Guide to Painting and Drawing, Techniques and Material's, Mayflower Books, New York.) I think that as new erasers were developed people stick to their favorites as well. I did once use white bread as an eraser.... that says alot about the way bread is made.... I got curious after being told it works.... If you can get access to a John Neal catalog, I think it describes them and it should help you figure out the where with all. Clare Ansteorra =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:54:33 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C142AD.52EFB0A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings Despina, I was taught to split the nib, but recently I used a quill htat I'd = re-cut so often the split was lost. It worked nicely except for needing = a lot more dipping. Also, the hand I was doing needed no pressed = strokes. When I split it, I made a tiny hole at the top of the split. Works = great! Corinna ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Amy L. Hornburg Heilveil=20 To: scribes@castle.org=20 Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 12:36 PM Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a = question) At 02:19 PM 9/21/2001 -0300, Martin Higgins wrote: thanks for the clues on Peafowl quills, will certainly give this a = try, and will be very careful (why did I just heard those words in my head as = if Elmer Fudd was saying them? ) when splitting the nib. I wasn't taught to split the nib and so I don't. My quills work = beautifully. Anyone else? Despina - ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C142AD.52EFB0A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Greetings Despina,

I was taught to split the nib, but = recently I used=20 a quill htat I'd re-cut so often the split was lost. It worked = nicely=20 except for needing a lot more dipping. Also, the hand I was doing = needed=20 no pressed strokes.

When I split it, I made a tiny hole at = the top of=20 the split. Works great!

Corinna

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Amy L. = Hornburg=20 Heilveil

To: scribes@castle.org

Sent: Friday, September 21, = 2001 12:36=20 PM

Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill = information=20 (was Greetings and a question)

At 02:19 PM 9/21/2001 -0300, Martin = Higgins=20 wrote:

thanks for the clues on Peafowl quills, = will=20 certainly give this a try, and
will be very careful (why did I = just heard=20 those words in my head as if
Elmer Fudd was saying them? = <G>) when=20 splitting the nib.

I wasn't taught to split = the nib and=20 so I don't. My quills work beautifully. Anyone=20 else?

Despina

- ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C142AD.52EFB0A0-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:09:42 -0500 From: "Amy L. Hornburg Heilveil" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers - --=====================_198747573==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 12:47 PM 9/21/2001 -0500, Kate Rayburn wrote: > They are a white plastic eraser, a tan >gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser. The white plastic eraser is what many people prefer of the three you named for continuous use. It does not leave residue on your paper and is gentle to it (different people like and use different papers, there is no right or wrong paper just like there is no right or wrong eraser). The gum gray, kneaded rubber eraser, you can mold with your fingers to whatever shape it needs to be. If you have a small spot that needs to be lifted, this eraser is very good for it. I stopped using tan and pink erasers years ago, as I found that white plastic erasers and kneaded erasers fulfill nearly all of my erasing needs. Part of the key to this is that your lines shouldn't be laid down too heavy and dark to begin with. Mostly it's personal choice. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Try them all, work with them, see what you like and what you don't. The only other eraser I use on a semi-regular basis is a specialty eraser that will do such marvelous things as lift coffee spots off of paper (I'm talking a little, not a full cup on the document). I have used this eraser when a piece was rain damaged and I needed to clean it up, as the paint had bled. This eraser was a gift from a fellow artist and I haven't used it down to a nibble yet, so I haven't had occasion to ask where to get such a treasure. Smiles, Despina - --=====================_198747573==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" At 12:47 PM 9/21/2001 -0500, Kate Rayburn wrote:

They are a white plastic eraser, a tan
gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser.

The white plastic eraser is what many people prefer of the three you named for continuous use. It does not leave residue on your paper and is gentle to it (different people like and use different papers, there is no right or wrong paper just like there is no right or wrong eraser).

The gum gray, kneaded rubber eraser, you can mold with your fingers to whatever shape it needs to be. If you have a small spot that needs to be lifted, this eraser is very good for it. I stopped using tan and pink erasers years ago, as I found that white plastic erasers and kneaded erasers fulfill nearly all of my erasing needs.

Part of the key to this is that your lines shouldn't be laid down too heavy and dark to begin with. Mostly it's personal choice. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Try them all, work with them, see what you like and what you don't.

The only other eraser I use on a semi-regular basis is a specialty eraser that will do such marvelous things as lift coffee spots off of paper (I'm talking a little, not a full cup on the document). I have used this eraser when a piece was rain damaged and I needed to clean it up, as the paint had bled. This eraser was a gift from a fellow artist and I haven't used it down to a nibble yet, so I haven't had occasion to ask where to get such a treasure.

Smiles,
Despina

- --=====================_198747573==_.ALT-- =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 16:06:48 -0400 (EDT) From: "Lyle H. Gray" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Arthurian Heraldry - off-topic See if anyone in your area has a copy of Alfgar the Sententious's _Fabulous Heraldry_, a collection of arms, devices and badges attributed to fictional, legendary, and traditionaly figures. Several members of the Round Table were given attributed arms at later dates. For example, Arthur was attributed arms of _Azure, three crowns [in pale] or_, _Gules, three crowns [in pale] or_, and _Azure, thirteen crowns or_, as well as others, in different texts. Lyle FitzWilliam On Fri, 21 Sep 2001, Corinna Taylor/Al Frank wrote: > Greetings all. > > A friend contacted me today to request help with his son's > resesarch for a school project drawing the arms of the > Knights of the Round Table. > > After telling him that 1) they were fictitious and 2) several > hundred years before the development of a formal system of > heraldry, I recommended Sir Arthur Fox-Davies Encyclopedia of > Heraldry (I'm not sure of the exact title, but I mean the > huge book, not the Dover reprint of selected pages) or other > basic guide to heraldry, and simply read the various accepted > versions such as Mallory for descriptions. > > If anyone has other ideas, especially book titles, I would be > happy to pass them along to my friend. He is not on the > internet, though I assume his son has access through his > school or library. > > Corinna > Midrealm > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:01:02 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers Greetings Anezka: The white plastic sounds like a vinyl drafting eraser. It's intended for general use such as removal of guidelines. The tan gum eraser is an artgum, which was the standard before the vinyl erasers came along. It's also for general use and removal of smudges. The gray kneaded eraser is used slightly differently. It picks up by absorbing and sticking rather than rubbing. If you make a correction by scraping, the kneaded rubber will pick up the crumbs. It's also great for removing tiny shreds of gold leaf. It can be shaped as needed for small spots or larger areas, and when it gets dirtly, just knead it a bit and bury the dirty bits inside. Corinna - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kate Rayburn" To: Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 12:47 PM Subject: [scribes]: Erasers > I have three erasers that came in a set and I don't know what the > differences are between them. They are a white plastic eraser, a tan > gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser. Can someone with more > background than I have please tell me the difference between them and > what they are best used for? > > In Service, > Anezka z Rozmitala > Barony of Elfsea, Ansteorra > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:26:32 -0500 From: "Corinna Taylor/Al Frank" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers - ----- Original Message ----- From: "N.D. Wederstrandt" To: Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 2:51 PM Clare, Thank you for the information on silverpoint. The only time I did it, I had to make a small correction. I used a white strip in an electric eraser, and got a perfectly clean erasure. I couldn't imagine why silverpoint was supposed to be so hard to correct - until I tried to draw over! I ended up using a very hard pencil to redraw that bit. It matches fairly well now, but as the silver tarnishes it might not. Luckily it's a very small bit... Corinna Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers > Here's something I found in one of my books at work (not the > best but not bad) - "Silverpoint drawings were corrected with bread, > because this left the surface undamaged. Nowadays, rubbers (British > book) perform the same function. The common India rubber is adequate > but tends to retain grey particles and cause smudging. The more > modern plaster rubbers and artgum erasers over come this problem to > an extent.'" (Colin Hayes, The Complete Guide to Painting and > Drawing, Techniques and Material's, Mayflower Books, New York.) > Clare > Ansteorra > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. > =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 17:15:29 EDT From: KMcWhyte@aol.com Subject: Re: [scribes]: Pencils (Was Erasers) As before, the info regarding the different things the erasers do is correct -- a kneaded gum (grey) eraser is a softer substance and will not harm the surface of your piece, plus it will not leave those pesky shavings behind. The white or yellow plastic erasers are moreso meant for drafting, and can sometimes pick up ink, depending on the sort you use, but I wouldn't recommend them, from my p.o.v. Gum erasers, IE the blocky-shaped ones, are more intended for fine art mediums such as conte crayon, charcoal, etc. These will leave shavings all over the place... not a good pick (may also smear much like the pink erasers). Regarding pencil lines... Try using a pencil of 4H (hardness), or even 2H. These indicate the hardness of your graphite -- the average no.2 pencil consists of 2H, I believe (I may be wrong here). Standard pencils are HB, which is a medium blend of hard and soft graphite together. Other alternatives include silverpoint, as mentioned previously, or as was suggested to me by Mistress Aleksandra in Ostgardr, indent slightly with a ruler. Indentations won't show up (not scraping), but can't be erased. All in all, it's a matter of opinion and taste... There's no "wrong" way to do it, unless it damages the piece. Good luck! Lady Kayleigh McWhyte, Mercenary Scribe (East) E.Frank, Long Island, NY ((A.A.S & B.F.A, Graphic Design '92 & '95.)) =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 19:35:00 -0400 From: Randy Asplund Subject: Re: [scribes]: Erasers The white Mars Steadtler erasers work well and do the best for getting the most off the page. I like the gray kneaded erasers too because it is easy to shape them into erase details that are amongst details I want to keep. They are gentle. I never noticed any permanent residue from the tan gum erasers, but they sure crumble a lot and that needs to be brushed away, as with the white Mars. I really like a .5 mm mechanical pencil to do layout. It makes light lines that are easy to erase if they are not applied with much pressure. The hardness level allows them to give good detail without much smudging. But, to each his own. We all like what we like, eh? RanthulfR sburnell@raex.com wrote: > > > I have three erasers that came in a set and I don't know what the > > differences are between them. They are a white plastic eraser, a > tan > > gum eraser, and a gray kneaded rubber eraser. Can someone with more > > background than I have please tell me the difference between them > and > > what they are best used for? > > My Lady, > > DON'T used a gum eraser for doing a scroll. Your best bet is to go > with the white plastic eraser. The gum eraser will leave a residue on > your paper. (I use Arches 140# hot press paper, BTW.) > > What specifically they are used for in art, well, lacking a > studio art education (my art education is specifically art history > with a specialisation in Mediaeval and Renaissance art), I couldn't > tell you specifically what they are used for, but I know that my mom > and my sister, both of whom are artists, have them in their art boxes. > I only use a white plastic eraser because all I do is scribal stuff, > and I use a technical pencil to draw the "cartoon" for the > illumination before I ink it and paint it. > > Wish I could tell you more, but I'll leave that to those who've > gone to Art School to do that. Master Ranthulfr? You're one of the > professionally art school trained artists here - maybe you could > further enlighten this lady? > > ~Saradwen > Midrealm > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. - -- VISIT RandyAsplund.com To see a Universe of art ranging from Magic: The Gathering to Star Trek and Medieval Manuscripts Randy Asplund (734) 663-0954 Science Fiction and Fantasy Illustration 2101 S. Circle Dr., Ann Arbor, MI. 48103 =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:53:08 -0300 From: "Martin Higgins" Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) > Where do you get peafowl wing feathers? From the wings of either the Peacock or Peahen :o) (couldn't resist) *smirk* but really... they can be either pulled (hopefully from an allready dead bird) or can be easily found on the grounds where the peafowl are kept, just like any other bird. Griet =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 19:49:15 EDT From: RenScribe@aol.com Subject: [scribes]: Re:Erasers Does anyone know what is in erasers? I was told when I started that all erasers, save the plain white ones, contain sulfur or other chemicals which will leave residue on the paper and this eventually affects the paper somewhere down the road. I was told the pink ones are especially bad. I wish someone could confirm or debunk this for me. Eibhlin ni Chaoimh AEthelmearc =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:08:43 -0300 From: "Martin Higgins" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Pencils > I really like a .5 mm mechanical pencil to do layout. It makes light > lines that are easy to erase if they are not applied with much pressure. > The hardness level allows them to give good detail without much > smudging. But, to each his own. We all like what we like, eh? > > RanthulfR I'm actually glad you mentioned that..... I always found .5 mechanical pens quite versatile and great to do work with... but even years after being taught by a professional artist not to use them I have been quite reluctant. Might be dragging the pencil out again and giving it another go Griet =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:02:24 -0400 From: Randy Asplund Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) We did a SCA demo at a zoo once. We got to camp overnight on the zoo grounds. I noticed that the one place where the public had not managed to glean up the feathers was in the Buffalo pen. There were quite a few buffalo, but the pen was horseshoe shaped. I went and made faces at them on one end. When they all ran over to where I was in order to kick my scribal butt I ran to the other side, hopped in gathered the feathers, and hopped back out with about five buffalo on my heels. I had to do each side twice to get them all. Buffalo aren't too smart, are they? RanthulfR PS. Don't try this trick at home. (Or in zoos!) Martin Higgins wrote: > > > Where do you get peafowl wing feathers? > > >From the wings of either the Peacock or Peahen :o) > (couldn't resist) *smirk* > but really... they can be either pulled (hopefully from an allready dead > bird) or can be easily found on the grounds where the peafowl are kept, just > like any other bird. > > Griet > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. - -- VISIT RandyAsplund.com To see a Universe of art ranging from Magic: The Gathering to Star Trek and Medieval Manuscripts Randy Asplund (734) 663-0954 Science Fiction and Fantasy Illustration 2101 S. Circle Dr., Ann Arbor, MI. 48103 =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:50:02 -0400 From: "Sally Burnell" Subject: Re: [scribes]: Greetings and a question Personally, I just started cutting my own quills a few months ago and I love it! They write wonderfully! Good luck and let us know how it goes. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- I've only tried quill cutting once, but I knew very little at the time about doing it, so it really didn't turn out too well, so while we're on this topic, I'd like to ask this question: It's really easy around here to find seagull feathers (they're EVERYWHERE these days, especially large parking lots!). That is what I was trying to cut to make a quill. So, has anybody else tried them and are they worth using? I also tried, using my trusty battered copy of Johnston, to cut reed pens. Well....it was certainly an interesting experiment! Actually, they didn't write so badly! They were a bit absorbant of the ink, since reeds are generally porous, but still, I was rather amazed at the results. Not sure I'd use on on a Kingdom scroll, but it was sure fun playing around with them! ~Saradwen Midrealm =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:41:22 -0700 From: "Laura F. Jenkins" Subject: Re: [scribes]:Quill information (was Greetings and a question) Can someone talk a little bit more about the curing process? I've tried heating the quills in hot sand but they never seem to harden enough (well except for the one that I charred :) Can someone give hints as to how hot, how long, etc. to get the proper hardness. Thanks, aliskye Lyondemere, Caid Janice Safran wrote: > I don't think that I've used peafowl, but I've tried lots of other > feathers (parrot, seagull, chicken, turkey, duck), and while lots of > them have lots of strength in the shaft (the part of the feather > where the barbs attach and make a flight surface), most have thinner > walls to the hollow barrel end than goose or swan (I think this is > why so many writing masters specifically praise goose and swan > quills-- because the width of the barrel walls allowed for a stiff, > springy pen even if it was uncured). Duck feathers are a little > greasy and need to be cured carefully (a little -- but just a > little!-- longer in the hot sand for dutching, or much longer hanging > in the attic for air-curing. I've never oven-cured a duck feather). > > Jan, who wuvs quill-making > > >oh... while we are on this subject.... I was wondering if anyone here ever > >used a peafowl wing feather to make a pen? I have very few, but the shafts > >seem very ridged and strong as any goose or even swan feather... what do you > >think? > > > >Griet > > -- > > =================================================================== > To unsubscribe from this list, send email to > with a blank Subject: line and > unsubscribe scribes > in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in > the body. =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:51:14 +0800 From: Jean-Paul Blaquiere Subject: Re: [scribes]: Pencils > On Sep 21, Martin Higgins illuminated with a virtual scribe : > I'm actually glad you mentioned that..... I always found .5 mechanical pens > quite versatile and great to do work with... but even years after being > taught by a professional artist not to use them I have been quite reluctant. > Might be dragging the pencil out again and giving it another go > The 0.3mm are also quite wonderful. I find the give a very fine light line which you can do with a 0.5 but turning the pencil all the time gets annoying. (to keep the sharp edge on the paper) /jp... - -- Jean-Paul Blaqui�re || Avatar of Computational jeanpaul@ichr.uwa.edu.au || Thaumaturgy Democracy is based on the premise that a million men are wiser than one man. How's that again? I missed something? -- Lazarus Long =================================================================== To unsubscribe from this list, send email to with a blank Subject: line and unsubscribe scribes in the body of the message. Do not include any additional text in the body. ------------------------------ End of scribes digest V7 #9 ***************************